Reflections of the Sydney Skyline

Reflections of the Sydney Skyline

As paddlers we spend a great deal of time exploring the outdoors but often concentrate on the natural world – waves, cliffs, beaches and wildlife. Often we forget that the urban world we live in can have a fascinating side viewable only from the water, so for this paddle I decided to get back into the city and show people the great city of Sydney from a kayaks point of view.

Breaking dawn over Sydney - golden skies and glassy waters

Breaking dawn over Sydney - golden skies and glassy waters

Starting early, I dropped the boat in at Blues Point in front of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, and took advantage of the calm glassy waters undisturbed yet by Sydney’s ferries. Paddling over towards Darling Harbour I skirted some of the sights before heading over to the ANZAC Bridge and then back across the main channel amongst some of the islands and headlands on the Harbour. With the early start, I was done by 9am and on my way home, having experienced a truly beautiful side of this antipodean captial from the cockpit of my sea kayak. Hope you enjoy some of the sights too, and if you haven’t experienced it yourself, get out on the water and enjoy! Cheers – FP

Ocean liner "Pacific Dawn" pulled in and docked whilst I was watching.

Ocean liner "Pacific Dawn" pulled in and docked whilst I was watching.

ANZAC Bridge - named in honour of the soldiers of Australia and New Zealand

ANZAC Bridge - named in honour of the soldiers of Australia and New Zealand

HMAS Adelaide - stripped down and ready to be turned into an artificial reef

HMAS Adelaide - stripped down and ready to be turned into an artificial reef

Poles! An interesting route by Goat Island, in the guts of the Harbour

Poles! An interesting route by Goat Island, in the guts of the Harbour

Pelican out for an early monring paddle too (just by Balls Head Reserve)

Pelican out for an early morning paddle too (just by Balls Head Reserve)

Blues Point - not a bad spot to start and end a paddle!

Blues Point - not a bad spot to start and end a paddle!

The Fat Paddler by Sean Smith

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"The Coat Hanger".... aka the Sydney Harbour Bridge

"The Coat Hanger".... aka the Sydney Harbour Bridge

I don’t often paddle in the heart of the city of Sydney because of excessive boat, ship and ferry traffic, but every now and then I do just to see our magnificent city from the Harbour. My completely biased view is that Sydney is the most beautiful city in the world, and exploring her waters is always a pleasure.

The Famous Tim Kennings and I met up at Blues Point and set off into the darkness at 6am, enjoying the view of the city lights reflecting off the water before sunrise lightened the sky. For the rest of the morning we explored her shores, stopped for coffee in Chowder Bay, surfed wind chop and ferry wake, paddled & surfed under the Luna Park boardwalk and generally had a blast as the wind and chop built up over the morning.

Needless to say I’ll let the photos tell the story. Cheers – FP

TFTK in the early morning amber light at sunrise, Opera House in background.

TFTK in the early morning amber light at sunrise, the Sydney Opera House in background.

Exploring the Harbour's northern shoreline

Exploring the Harbour's northern shoreline

The world's most beautiful harbour.... well, I think so!

The world's most beautiful harbour.... well, I think so!

Even harbour's get swell and waves. Good fun to play in!

Even harbour's get swell and waves. Good fun to play in!

The iconic Sydney Opera House. As seen from the water!

The iconic Sydney Opera House. As seen from the water!

Kirribilli House, the official Sydney residence of Australia's Prime Minister

Kirribilli House, the official Sydney residence of Australia's Prime Minister

Paddling under Luna Park. Timbo surfed through this lane!

Paddling under Luna Park. Timbo surfed through this lane!

Style. Poise. Grace. The Famous Tim Kennings in his North Shore Atlantic!

Style. Poise. Grace. The Famous Tim Kennings in his North Shore Atlantic!

The Fat Paddler by Sean Smith

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Sunrise over Manly

Sunrise over Manly

One of the real joys of getting out early in the kayak is seeing sunrises from the water. There is something magical about a dark horizon turning gold and then watching an amber rising sun reflected off the water, all whilst bobbing about in gentle early morning swell.

Call it a sudden moment of romanticism, but I was looking through past photos and realised just how many sunrises I’ve seen over the past few months. So I thought perhaps I’d share some of those moments. Enjoy – FP

Rising sun reflected in the Sydney city skyline

Rising sun reflected in the Sydney city skyline

Dawn from Five Dock (west of the Sydney CBD)

Dawn from Five Dock (west of the Sydney CBD)

Sunrise over Seaforth

Sunrise over Seaforth

Dawn over North Head

Dawn over North Head

Dawn breaking over Berowra Waters

Dawn breaking over Berowra Waters

Sunrise bathing the Sydney city in amber

Sunrise bathing the Sydney city in amber

Sunrise through the mists of Bantry Bay

Sunrise through the mists of Bantry Bay

Stormy dawn, Berowra Waters

Stormy dawn, Berowra Waters

Sunrise over Grotto Point

Sunrise over Grotto Point

Sydney Harbour Bridge at dawn

Sydney Harbour Bridge at dawn

Amber dawn over Bradleys Head

Amber dawn over Bradleys Head

The Fat Paddler by Sean Smith

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Heading out at 7am...

Heading out at 7am into paddler traffic ...

A few weeks ago I missed a paddle after a rare night out to farewell a work colleague left me in no state to get up early. And as fate would have it, this particular day the paddlers on Middle Harbour got to play with the biggest pod of dolphins in living memory to come into the Harbour. For me, having never seen a dolphin in all my paddles, this was absolutely gutting, and so every paddle since I’ve gone to the same spot of this dolphin sighting in the hope they come back. That spot is Grotto Point.

Sunrise on approach to Grotto Point

Sunrise on approach to Grotto Point

So on this day I’ve paddled out past the point looking for dolphins when what should join me instead, but a pair of Fairy Penguins out fishing. Now this IS a rare occurance, but not quite a dolphin sighting. So I decided to paddle past Middle head through the ocean swell and into the main part of the harbour just in case they were hiding there somewhere!

Passing Middle Head

Passing Middle Head

Now once into the main part of the harbour the swell is joined by stink-boat chop and ferry wake, which turns it into a maelstrom of criss-crossing waves which buffet the yak from all directions. But I’d never paddled this way into the Harbour before so kept going for a good 10km until I rounded the HMAS Sydney point, finally giving me a view of the city and the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

Looking west to the Sydney Harbour Bridge

Looking west to the Sydney Harbour Bridge

At this point I turned around and rode the outgoing tide back to Middle harbour, through the swell coming through the heads before heading back to the The Spit for a well earned coffee. A great long paddle, but still no sign of those bloody dolphins. Next time for sure! :)

Ocean swell, easier to handle than ferry-wake!

Ocean swell, easier to handle than ferry-wake!

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Paddling down the shipping lane to "The Coathanger", aka Sydney Harbour Bridge

Paddling down the shipping lane to "The Coathanger", aka Sydney Harbour Bridge

I decided it was time for a test, a time to put the demons behind me, a time to get past the disasterous first paddle into Sydney Harbour. It was time to take on the shipping channel, the ocean swell, the harbour ferries and the speedboat cowboys of the main body of the Harbour.

I mapped out a route from Five Dock, between the peninsulas of Drummoyne and Balmain, out into the main channel of the Harbour and across to Milsons Point ie right up to the Sydney Harbour Bridge itself. 14 kms of choppy, dangerous paddle – this was going to be a real test!

Of course to negate the traffic-chop as much as possible I made sure I was on the water before 6.30am, setting off into the Harbour before the sun had yet peeked over the horizon.

Setting off from Five Dock - glassy so far...

Setting off from Five Dock - glassy so far...

With 5kms before hitting the channel proper, this seems easier than expected. Until of course I got to the channel and noticed the ferries had started – queue choppy waters!  Fighting my way through the chop, I head off towards the relative protection of Blues Point (and Milsons Point beyond) with relatively no major issues.

Luna Park, Milsons Point

Luna Park, Milsons Point

Of course once there I get to experience the true grandeur of Sydney’s major landmarks, the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Sydney Opera House. But admittedly I’m finding them hard to enjoy, because ferry chop is starting to broadside my kayak and it is becoming increasingly difficult to stay upright.

Sydney Opera House

Sydney Opera House at sunrise

So after enjoying the sites I decide to head off back to Five Dock before the water traffic gets too great. After paddling a few minutes I came across another paddler using a Greenland Paddle. Now this is a great looking paddle, known for its ease of use over longer distances, so we stopped and had a chat about how it was to use.

Random kayaker with Greenland Paddle

Kayaker with Greenland Paddle

And that was about the time that the first 4 foot wave hit my boat. A whole set of large waves, which I’m guessing had come off the larger of the Manly Ferries, came smashing through, threatening to topple me off the yak. Turning against the waves, I paddled hard trying to surf them, but struggled to keep the nose from spearing into the Harbour as the waves washed over the back and sides of the kayak. And as the kayak filled further, the more unstable it became. And just as I thought I was about to topple in, the waves stopped.

So a quick pump out of the water and things are seemingly fine. Except the deafening roar of a tankers fog horn which breaks the peace of the Harbour, and looking back I see why – I am right in the shipping lane in the tankers way and it’s bearing down fast.

The tanker didn't seem close at first....

The tanker didn't seem close at first....

So paddle rate up & I have to sprint a km to get out the way of the rapidly approaching tanker, before turning the corner at Birchgrove for the paddle back home. And just when I think the hard part is over, I find myself paddling through a rowing regatta. So another kilometre detour gets me finally back to Five Dock and an end to another paddle.

Harbour conquered! (until next time no doubt!)

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